Goodbye to Orchha. Last night we left to catch our 10:40 pm train to Varanasi. The ride is scheduled to last 13 plus hours with an emphasis on the “plus.” I understand delays of two, five or even eight hours are as common as not. We locked all of our luggage to the underside of the bench/bottom berth. The berths are three across on either side with another two across the aisle. There are no doors, traffic goes right on through. Our seats were not all together but our guide wrangled trades from passengers sharing our area. Daphne woke several times to discover people standing in compartment eyeballing our bags. The berth was not wide and not comfortable and it sloped downward on the outside threatening to spit me out onto the floor. Even so, I slept pretty well even though I woke often to adjust positions.
We arrived a Varanasi at about noon. This is a Hindu sacred city where people come to bathe in the Ganges and also where people come to die. Bathing in the river is considered to wash away sin and dying in Varanasi is thought to insure attainment of Nirvana. (Heaven or the cessation of the reincarnation cycle) Entire families will travel to Varanasi with their sick or dying loved one and stay for as long as it takes to insure the best possible outcome for their passing.
We went to the ghats (the steps) just before sundown were I got caught up in a parade/celebration for one God or another. I happened to be standing in the exact spot that they were headed to set down the God statue. No one seemed to mind, they just tried to get me involved in the singing.
We boarded a boat to sail along the ghats. Many people were bathing and a dozen cremations were taking place so the shore was pretty crowded. Our guide is really good about explaining the meanings of a lot of the Hindu rites. It was very solemn, I think the whole group was touched.
The family buys sandalwood if they can afford it (something less expensive otherwise) and a pyre is built. Clarified butter is also used but I’m nott sure how. Then the oldest son is given a torch to light the fire. This torch was lit from a continuously burning fire believed to have been a gift from Lord Shiva. The most important person in town is the priest who keeps the fire and lights the torches.
Varanasi has been continually inhabited for 3000 years and also is of importance to Buddhists. The Buddha is said to have given his first sermon here. There is a museum and temple ruins nearby at that spot. Going there is an optional activity for tomorrow.
